Ed “Big Daddy” Roth’s ‘Scuz-Fink’ using
all the techniques we know so far!!
STEP ONE: Piece
always, pull that bad dog outta’ the box and check all the parts.
Remove the pieces from the parts trees and shave off any “hangnails”
with yer trusty X-Acto knife. Than get to priming!
A nice even coat of Design Master Grey Primer
on all the parts and lay ‘em out nice and neat to dry.
Paste, Putty, & Paint
Check out your instruction sheet thoroughly, and plan your attack!
It pays to think ahead when assembling these kits, don’t get
to smart for your britches! I assemble the major parts, without gluing
together any parts that might make my painting work any harder. And
don’t forget to pre paint any parts that might be difficult
to reach after you glue the pieces together. For example, with most
of these Ed Roth kits, ya gotta remember to paint
the inside of the mouth part, glue it inside the front body half and
THEN glue the body halves together. Next, we putty and sand those
unsightly seems. Then, apply base coats of paint to some major areas.
In this case I apply some Delta Ceramcoat Flat Black
to the sleeve portions of the suit. I don’t want these to be
black, but to achieve the effect I want I need the base coat to be
dark. Later I’ll dry brush a silver/grey color over these sleeve
portions and the black will only show in the creases, thus adding
cool guy texture to the kit.
Base coating the Face, Hands, Legs
Ditto on the face area. I apply a dark green color, made up of Liquitex
Ultramarine Blue and Cadmium Yellow. (Handily
left over from my Riddler
build up!) Later I’ll dry brush lighter shades of green, yellow
and some white, leaving the dark green only in the wrinkles and creases
of the characters face. This gives you that swift 3-D look that all
the kids are talkin’ about! And I’m gonna’ put the
first coat of eye color on the 3 eyes of the kit. Later, I’ll
detail ‘em out, but for now, one coat of Testor’s
Primer Grey will do.
STEP FOUR: Color
Washing, Phase 1
Okey, Dokey! If ya’ know anything at all ‘bout Ed
Roth kits, ya’ know he makes all his characters with
deep wrinkles all over the face. It just makes these kits jump out
at ya’ when you can bring out the detail of those lines. I’m
not confident that the dark green color that I’ve used to base
the face is gonna’ give me enough definition when I start brushing
up the lighter shades. So, as an insurance policy, I’m gonna’
give the kit a dark color wash of Delta Ceramcoat Black
mixed with a dollop of hand washing liquid soap and some water. The
addition of soap makes the wash adhere to the lines better; it gives
the wash a little more stick! AH, HA! Now there’s those deep
lines I was lookin’ for!
Dry Brushing That Detail!
Now we get to building up the lighter tones with some dry brushing.
I take the green color that I used for my base and mix in some Liquitex
Cadmium Yellow and Liquitex Titanium White.
When I get a semi-pale tone, I grab my handy, dandy favorite dry brush
and begin lightly applying the tint to the raised areas. BE
SURE TO GET MOST OF THE PAINT OFF THE BRUSH. The main difference
between subtle dry brush effect and streaky looking dry brush is the
amount of paint. The brush should be literally, dry. The tones will
slowly build up to give you the effect you want. Be patient. After
the first pass, I add more white and yellow to the green base and
take another pass at the kit. Now, that looks pro!!
Let’s get a quick smooth coat of Tamiya X-11 Chrome
Silver on that space suit, and then we’ll hit it with
the same dark wash we used on the face features. This wash will bring
out the textures of the suit and add a lot more realism to the kit.
(Which is what I’m sure Big Daddy was going
STEP SEVEN: Dry
brush, Part 2, and Some Facial Detailing
Remember back in Step 2, we painted the sleeve portions flat black.
Well, now we return with the Tamiya X-11 Chrome Silver and
dry brush the sleeves to bring out the raised wrinkles of the suite.
Check it out!! It’s like 3-D, man! While were at it, it’s
time to go to work on the eyes, I’ve already got a base coat
of primer so it’s time to break out the Liquitex Titanium
White and hit ‘em up with a quick coat. From there,
I take my handy, dandy Le Plume Black Marker and
do them pupils. Then with the Le Plume Red, I do
some of the fine veining work. Slick lookin’ ain’t it?
Next, a lil’ dab of Liquitex Burnt Sienna for
the pupils, leaving a small ring of black visible around them, and
these eyes are startin’ to look alive!
STEP EIGHT: Color
Washing, Phase II
Now to give that space suite a little “realism”. Grab
that black wash we used earlier to deepen the lines on the face, and
give a nice even wash to the whole suit area. You’ll see it
sink into the crevices and pits in the suit, it’ll also give
some added definition to the arm areas by deepening the shadows in
the sleeve creases.
STEP NINE: Odds
OOOOOPS! Usually I start with this stuff, but for some reason I was
in a hurry to jump right into workin’ on the main piece. Impatience,
it can screw ya’ up if yer not careful. So we have all these
peripheral parts, namely the baseplate and the lil’ set decorations
that come with the kit, so let’s knock out that base first.
I mix up a reddish, brownish, orangish color with Liqutitex
Napithol Crimson, Cadmium Yellow and
Raw Sienna. Tryin’ to match that dried up Planet Mars
look they show on the box art. A base coat of that mix is followed
by detailing in the cracks and crevices in the planet surface with
a Le Plume Brown marker. Next, we break out the ol’ Badger
150 for some quick air brush work. I give the base some light
shading with Badger Opaque Black, filling in the
craters and shadowing the landscape. Cool! Lastly, I dry brush some
of my original color mix over the raised areas to soften the detailing
and the air brush work. Now, that looks like a planet, dammit! Then
theres the rest of the lil’ parts that make a kit so………special.
The Flag, the jet pack, the rip cord, the ray-gun and of course, the
STEP TEN: The
Now we can’t ferget about ol’ Dingbat,
can we? That’s the secondary figure in this kit that serves
as the mounting platform for Scuzzy. This lil’
guy is gonna’ get the full on treatment. First I base coat him
with my leftover green color (the same that I used for the face of
Scuz) lightened up with some Liquitex Cadmium
Yellow. Next, I brandish my Badger 150 and
layer in a light coat of Createx Transparent Ultramarine Blue
along the tips of the wings, lightening up the tone as I
move towards the body. This gives a cool fade out look. Then, I mix
in some Createx Transparent Red and Createx
Opaque White for a purple color and airbrush the tail, and
again highlight the the bottom edge of the wings, fading lighter as
I work out from the body. WOW! What a cool look, just like on the
box picture. I love when that happens. Time for some dry brush now,
I take my reddish orange color that I mixed far the planet base and
dry brush that up along the tail area and the center of the body.
I follow that with a dry brush coat of white, and just a tad of Raw
Sienna. Finish him up with the eye detail and VOILA! Finished.
STEP ELEVEN: Grab
You know, its kinda of sad to get to the end of another kit, but onward
we go. Grab up those parts, get yer Insta-Cure+ and
put the finishing touches on a classic Ed Roth Monster kit.
As you can tell by the pictures, this one was done with lots o’
can check out the finished Scuz Fink kit here.